If you really want to understand what’s going on, with the probe on a bench, back out all 3 screws as far as they reasonably go (don’t push it, mine can’t be removed from the outside of the housing - I think intentionally to prevent you from loosing the screws.) an you can remove the 10mm shank from the back/top of the probe body. There is a LOT adjustment available and the design is such that shank stays accurately perpendicular to the probe body while being adjusted axially.
You will of course have to recalibrate the probe tip again.
Or just look at the exploded view I posted in this thread a short while ago.
It’s important to follow the Tormach directions accurately or know what’s moving inside. I originally modified their directions by having the adjustment screw facing me instead of on the back side facing the surface you are adjusting too. This made the screw directions backwards. I also makes it so you are testing a radial contact point that is BETWEEN the two screws on the back. that you can’t see while adjusting. (yes I have a habit of making things harder than they need to be and not following directions).
That combined with the 3 screws working against each other made very easy to just over tighten all of them and end up with poor results. As has been said, you REALLY need to be working all 3 screws slowly and lightly. Only when you are getting REALLY close do you go for a little tighter to make sure it stays in place.
I’ve got multiple probes and also have a speeder head. I need to setup the probe every time I put it in the speeder - there’s no TTS holder. I’ve gotten a lot better at it.