I’m sure this has been asked, but despite my searching here, and all the other forums on the interwebs I can’t find an answer, atleast not from this decade.
Does anyone have a coolant they recommend that would be okay to leave for up to 3-4 weeks unused?
I have a 2017 pcnc1100, that had a little rust from being left covered in coolant after a guy closed his shop, now it’s all cleaned up and I’m worried to use flood on it in my situation.
I also ordered a fogbuster, so I can just use that, but flood would be nice for some things. So if anyone has a recommendation for the fogbuster oil that would also be great.
And Here’s a pic of my last project.
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This might not be for everyone but it seems to work for me. Someone tell me if it’s a bad idea long term.
What I do when I know I won’t be using my machine for a while (1-2 months). Wash down the machine and blow off. T h en clear out the chip tray. Then run a block of wood to turn it to dust. Then run the oiler and move all the axis and leave it. The sawdust really dries everything out and keeps it dry. When I get ready to use it I just wash it down again and the machine looks brand new. The sawdust also pulls all the oil and metal chips off the inside of the enclosure so it’s really clean then clear the chip tray and check the coolant concentration (the sawdust also ubsorbs most of the way oil in the sump if there is any. It also absorbs a lot of water so the coolant concentration can spike (structural 2x4 wood). My 1100mx is almost 2 years installed and it looks good. Also the coolant I use is Cutsol ultra Hard Water. I’m in the uk, the water here is 1000ppm calcium so it’s real hard. That may contribute to little to no corrosion. I use flood mostly and cut stainless steel, steel and aluminum.
Michael,
The biggest issue with any coolant is bacteria growth, having a skimmer or bubbler running when the machine is not in use with significantly extend the life of the coolant.
Harold,
Significant damage is not likely to occur with occasional use but sawdust + oil forms an abrasive that will wear the machine ways over time and I would encourage you to avoid this practice.
Thank you,
Norman
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So you leave wet sawdust in there? Or are you saying to blow all the coolant off 100% first? If it works, it works though. But that brings up another issue, why in the world is the bottom of the chip pan/stand flat? Most of the coolant seemed to drain, when I tested it, but not nearly all of it. I was considering using epoxy, and propping the machine up on one side to create a ramp towards the drain.
Or maybe I’m overthinking it. and proper coolant type, with maybe a bubbler or skimmer won’t cause rust? Or a thick layer of what looks and feels like grease? I did have to scrape of layers of greasy dried up coolant mess
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The coolant can be wiped down, but what norman is explaining is that coolant that becomes still will get corrosive, and even start to build up on the pump shaft, which can affect the pump performance or seize the pump.
I wouldn’t introduce sawdust to any mill for the sake of moisture control, but rather use a linear lube spray like E-900 for the ways, and Boeshield or CRC corrosion protection.
E-900 will help preserve the ways and the other two will protect surfaces from rust ( like under a vise or fixture).
CRC ( Rust & Corrosion Inhibitor):
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00255257?cid=ppc-google-&mkwid=|dc&pcrid=&rd=k&product_id=00255257&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm5fA4ZeiiQMV30H_AR0V-QbWEAQYAiABEgJFg_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Boeshield:
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I’ve been using the fog buster on the 1100MX with Xtreme Cut 251C. Mixed with water at around 10% to 15%.
After each use I clean up all the shavings and wipe it all down. I use the machine every few days. I was concerned that flood coolant would grow bacteria.
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I have been using trim 585xt for years now. You will have to watch your concentrations and levels but I haven’t had any problems with corrosion. I usually try to stay between 7-10% on my solution. I have several machines that I haven’t changed coolant for years and have just been adding make up coolant. There are times that my machines will sit for a couple months at a time and so far all is good. If you leave it under a vise it will cause staining but I haven’t ever had active rust. My shop is climate controlled.
This may sound wierd but has anyone tried using a sacrificial anode of say magnesium to keep the table etc from rusting?
We had similar issues with minor surface rust and sump life and found keys to overcoming these problems to be:
- Use a semi-synthetic coolant. We never found a full synthetic that didn’t have rust issues. Trim 690XT has worked well for us for years running 7-10% and hasn’t had a problem with sitting for 3-4 weeks as long as we also did the two following items.
- Make the coolant with reverse osmosis filtered and deionized water. You can get a four cartridge filter setup for around $100 from Amazon or elsewhere.
- Aerate the coolant several times a day. We have an aquarium bubbler on an automatically switched outlet that runs for 15 minutes thee times a day.
I’ve been using Qualichem 251C in a FogBuster for my 18-yo PCNC 1100 for about 5 years now and as flood coolant at 8% or so in my SBL15 for the same amount of time. The mill gets used more than the lathe and it can be weeks between uses. No rust or odors so far. Both machines are in our basement, which is controlled to about 70 °F or so year round.
Thanks for all the replies and info, it looks like 251C had a couple recommendations, along with an anti corrosion spray like crc or boeshield. My sst fog less coolant setup never shipped, and they’re not answering my messages or emails, so I guess it’s gonna have to be flood coolant, or cough up quite a bit more money for the real fog buster. After reading some sst reviews, I guess it’s my own fault for ordering from a company like, they sound like a terrible company, with no customer service.
Not a good idea with these machines. Fine powdery saw dust can work it’s way into the ball screw nuts and prevent the bearings from rolling through the track properly. I know the lube system pushes outward but once it’s in there it’s stuck. Even high quality seals can admit dust and debris. Worked with carbon fiber and other composite materials on a Haase TL1. Stuff goes everywhere even with dust collection. TL1 had grease fittings, so lube before and after was the routine.