Another Moving a (fully assembled) 1100MX question

Mill
1

Hi folks, I’ve read through some of the existing posts on the subject of moving, which have been very valuable.

Weight:
The Tormach web site says that the 1100MX machine weight fully assembled is approximately 1600lbs. Is this still accurate, or is the actual weight greater than this?

Height:
I plan to move a fully assembled 1100MX I purchased from a warehouse to my garage. My garage aperture is 82" in height ( even though my garage has 9’ ceilings and plenty of room for the machine ).

I measured the machine’s height with the Z-column lowered, and by my measurement, it appears that the very top of the Z-axis servo is about 82", plus or minus. Obviously if I use a pallet jack to lift the machine/stand it will foul the door aperture :frowning:

Is temporarily removing the z-axis servo a difficult operation and/or damaging to the 1100MX?

I watched a video on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbMqXPVhAZQ). It appears that I can use 2x4’s to support the spindle flange (not the spindle nose), then remove the z-axis motor via four screws and the z-axis shaft coupler. Is this the same on the 1100MX?

2

Removing the feet is an option but probably won’t make a big difference. Removing the Z servo will certainly help and is not a difficult thing to do, just be sure the column is all the way down with a wooden block between the table and spindle because the Z axis brake will come off with the servo so there won’t be anything holding the spindle up once you disconnect the coupler.

No idea what the fully assembled weight is, and it will depend on what options the machine has installed to a degree but a 1ton rated pallet jack shouldn’t have an issue.

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Thanks, Ian!

Is there a best method of strapping down the machine down for the move?

Assuming that I’ve placed some 4x4’s underneath the machine to support it.

4

The current un- assembled 1100MX machines come with the z- axis motor detached. Therefore, check the owners manual for assy instructions and reverse them for removal.
If you can screw down to the floor of the trailer you are using then adding cleats on the feet can help stabilize the machine, while also strapping it down.

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5

Thanks for the additional info about the Z-axis servo. That’s a brilliant idea about the feet, Davie. Thank you!

OK. So I think can lift the machine with a pallet jack, then replace the feet with screws through an oversized pallet made of 2x4’s or 2x6’s, then that can stabilize the machine from tilting over and act as a way for a pallet truck or jack to move the machine. I can also screw cleats and/or load eyelets into the pallet feet to screw additional strap attachment points.

The goal is provide a lifting surface for a pallet truck / jack, provide lateral / tipover protection, and then additional tiedown points for the trailer.

Are there any good areas to connect straps to on the base or near the top of the machine? for additional stabilization to the trailer?

6

There is a threaded hole on top of the column for a eye bolt. That in conjunction with the 2 eye bolts screwed into the table are how the mill is lifted onto the base. You should be able to tie onto that one point for stability. Also you can take out the windows by removing the top bracket above them and loosening the side ones.

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7

Heavy oak boards on the bottom of machine and cut numerous pieces of 3/4 pvc pipe. You can roll the heaviest machine most anywhere while keeping it close to the ground. If this helps?

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8

Should I remove the ATC assembly before moving? Or is it robust enough to handle a move?

In the manual, it says that the ATC assembly is a two man lift…about how heavy is it?

9

It’s about 50ish pounds. Definitely can be lifted by a single person but it’s not fun to do so while also trying to get it into position and thread the nuts on (no need to ask me how I know). The mount is quite sturdy though so I wouldn’t worry about moving the machine with it in place, though I’d definitely be inclined to check it’s alignment once the machine is in it’s final position and everything else has been levelled.

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10

I would leave it attached just unload it and put some foam or something in the rails and tie wrap it up so it can’t rattle all the way.
Unless a tormach engineer installed it and it’s been working perfectly you will probably end up aligning it a few times before you get it to a reliable state.
Tormach engineer told me the #1 problem with the ATC is people don’t have enough air. You need the specified amount of air at the stated pressure. If the compressor kicks on 80% through the tool change you probably don’t have enough air.

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11

Thanks to everyone for the advice here.

I managed (with some help) to move a fully assembled Tormach into my garage with an 82" door height.

I built a rugged 48" x 48" pallet out of 4x4 stringers, 2x8 top decking, and 1x5 bottom decking. Screwed the whole thing together with a bunch of GRK #9’s. I drilled 1/2" holes in the top decking to bolt the mill stand to.

I used a forklift with 4x4’s on the forks to raise the entire mill up by the base, remove the adjustable feet, then put the pallet underneath, lowered the mill onto the top decking, and then fastened the legs of the base to the top decking with m12 screws, nuts, and fender washers.

I rested the spindle collar (not the spindle nose) on a wood assembly to prevent the z-axis from dropping during the move. I undid the 8 small bolts holding the wire guide on top of the mill, and pushed them to the side. I removed the z-axis servo as directed. Then I removed the exterior components and shipped them separately from the mill. The 50W LED lights were also removed and shipped separately.

Total height of the 1100MX with the z-axis servo, LED lights, and wire guide removed, on top a 5" tall pallet was 78". Moving the mill with a pallet jack was fairly easy to do (carefully). We loaded the mill on a rollback truck and strapped it down via the legs and pallet. Transported it 15 miles by road with no issues.

Unloading off the truck was done in combination with a pallet jack and a winch. You need a wood board to bridge the one inch drop between the lip of the rollback and the driveway. A little bit more muscle with the pallet jack, and now there is a nice 1100MX in my garage. I think a walkie or a forklift would have made it easier, but it was still doable with two persons.

Just a note: On a rollback with an 8’ deck, I don’t advise more than a 48"x48" wide pallet, otherwise you can’t move the pallet jack around the mill when on the deck.

Thanks again for all the advice :slight_smile: