He has an exploded one, he needs Unexploded…
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I found old Copper RTV gasket maker to attach the 12”x12” lexan I got from Amazon. Had to cut the lexan down about 1” both ways to fit the LED light better.
For anyone wanting the specs on the LED light.
The way the plug is wired. Confirmed with a multimeter that my machine is indeed outputting 240v 2-phase to those plugs.
Cleaned off all oils with alcohol and let dry. Then ran a nice, thick 1/4” bead all the way around the housing.
Very carefully set the lexan onto the bead. And just barely pushed on it enough to squish the bead to no less than 1/8”. I want a nice thick bead for this application.
Used leftover lexan to create a spacer for the original brackets. Had to get longer M5 BHCS from my junk drawer.
Even though I let it pre-cure for double the normal time (2 hrs instead of 1 hr), the thick bead still pushed out a little bit during tightening. But also this leftover RTV has been on my shelf for years. But anyway. It is now sealed-up nice and tight, and I can finally see inside the machine again. Good enough for me! All in all maybe a $20 repair, versus throwing $100 away on another glass-faced OEM light that would just shatter again.
P.S. Still have not found a replacement light. The only company with 220v lights that would answer my email doesn’t have anything this big. So i’d have to make an adapter plate. No time for that, unfortunately.
I wandered by my 1100MX machine earlier with a tape measure and it looks like the replacement light I installed is one of the ~10"x9" ones that are all over Amazon with just a bit of flat stock loosely covering the remaining gap. I spliced in the existing plug. They’ll run on anything from 85 to 265 VAC Only problem might be finding some that aren’t chicken-baking bright.
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So you wired the light directly to the old plug, so the full 2-phase 220v power? 
Interesting. I guess the rectifier in the LED driver doesn’t care about single vs two phase. Nice!
My environment is the standard US “split phase” 220v (230, 240, whatever it takes) such that either side of that to neutral is 110/115/120. I suspect the light input power goes straight into a LED power supply that does not care what comes in because it’ll convert whatever it gets into constant-current DC. It could be getting 110v from hot to neutral or it could be getting 220v from both hots and you couldn’t tell without a meter (I would guess the former, but these are very cheap, so YMMV).
Client Challenge (underpowered, but found in quick search on Mouser shows the basic concept)
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